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The Mechanical Mod Voltage Drop Urban Legend

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:05 am
Ok, so I've been seeing time and time again many uninformed statements about the performance of mechanical mods. People who only want brass, copper or silver contacts, because they are only slightly informed about the resistance inside the simple circuit of a vaporizer.

The problem I've had, and something I've known from the start, is the majority of people are not taking a batteries internal resistance into account. This week I've seen a couple videos, and some postings in various places of people making claims about the voltage drop on a certain mod, when they are not taking the entire circuit into account, they see a resistance, and attribute that resistance entirely to the mod itself, and totally ignoring the batteries internal resistance, and the atomizers resistance (aside from the coil)

So I did some searching, because I figured there had to be some people out there who have got it right.

I came across an excellent post at atmizoo that explains the error in the way many people are determining the voltage drop in a device.

I should also note the math in the blog post also points out that the term "voltage drop" is also a horrible way to look at it. It is resistance, and Ohms law will tell you that the voltage drop of a resistor is dependant on the whole circuit. So when people say a certain mod has a voltage drop of 0.4V it's meaningless without referencing the atomizer coil resistance in the circuit.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 1:07 am
Quality contribution mongrel.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:44 am
I'm wondering why folks are bothering to concern themselves with voltage drop across an entire mod; I guess it would be the folk who run extremely low resistance 0.6 ohm or less coils. Perhaps in that instance, the 200 milliohms or so of internal battery resistance might be important. But I can't say I've ever understood the need to crank that much power. Someone in my vape group does that, and for the life of me I don't get it. She claims it isn't vaping if she isn't punishing her juice with at least 25 - 30 watts; hell, around 13 -15 watts or so with almost any juice I routinely vape in a chobra is plenty (usually too much) by me. I think if I need more vapor than that I'd dump a bottle of nicquid in a pressure cooker, fire it up and stick a straw at the manual relief vent and have at it :lol:
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:03 am
I am one of them people and I vape a Genesis (when I am in the mood) no less than 20 watts. This is why I use a MNKE with a set up like that. That battery has much less drop off eliminating the word "KICK". Once it does drop off I know its time to put it on the charger. (about 3.6V). Its not a urban legend. Its a vape style. I have an issue with people telling me how to vape. I have been doing this for well over a year, and I know what I like. With that being said. I dont always like the same thing. Sometimes I vape a Mini, or a 650MAH ego with a CE4 or the like.

The fact is that if you like LOW OHMS, and lots of Wattage then everything plays a part. Is the wick, wicking well to deliver the juice? Is the wick hole big enough? The intake hole big enough? Is the wire thick enough? Do I have a hot spot? Is the battery safe at higher levels? Is the center post Brass? Is the center pin brass? Is the switch brass? This means nothing to a 1-4 ohm vaper. I get it. But the little things make a difference to a higher wattage vaper. Its just how it is. This is why its all the rave for some. So why even question it? Sure I could buy a mechanical and use a 1ohm coil+. But why not just use a mod with electronics then? Everything has its place and not everyone likes the same thing. This is why I sold my Provari's. We evolve or stay where we are. Its your personal choice.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:13 am
Pleased to meet you. You ask why question it? Well, one reason is because I'm interested to know what the allure of it is to some. It doesn't matter who vapes what as far as I'm concerned, but high power vaping just doesn't float my personal boat. Now, if we're talking about high-power music.... :lol: :lol:
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:18 am
slap_maxwell wrote:Pleased to meet you. You ask why question it? Well, one reason is because I'm interested to know what the allure of it is to some. It doesn't matter who vapes what as far as I'm concerned, but high power vaping just doesn't float my personal boat. Now, if we're talking about high-power music.... :lol: :lol:

Ya I mean its just like you said. To higher power vapers is where it makes a diff. Its like when people question if a kick will win a mechanical. I say WHY? A kick only goes to 10 watts and if you buy a mod that cost less than a kick you can get your 10 watts. Its not Urban legend. Its the style of vape per that person. So I leave it alone. If you want a Kick then get one.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:09 am
That went above my head. I don't care too much about those things as long as it vapes decently I'm happy
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:35 am
Sockfootball21 wrote:That went above my head. I don't care too much about those things as long as it vapes decently I'm happy

I guess the best way to describe it is to consider electrical wire. If you want to run 120V then you use one wire. For 240V, you use a much thicker wire. Sure the thicker wire will work with 120V but it cost more and its over kill. But the thinner wire wont work with 240V because it wont carry the current (You get V drop, or worse yet, a fire). Its basic when you think of it like that. The only people that question it are the ones that vape with lower current. I dont know how else to explain it. More power needs more conductivity. A way to deliver the power.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:54 am
My query is basically why, not the mechanics of it. I understand the mechanics; I'm currently working as a broadcast engineer. The only person who really blasts >20 watts in my vape group all the time doesn't know why she does it; I asked her the other night and she said "I dunno." So I'm more curious than anything. I tried her set-up and it was just really hot vapor to me. Maybe that's what she likes and just can't say why. :)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:15 am
slap_maxwell wrote:I'm wondering why folks are bothering to concern themselves with voltage drop across an entire mod; I guess it would be the folk who run extremely low resistance 0.6 ohm or less coils. Perhaps in that instance, the 200 milliohms or so of internal battery resistance might be important. But I can't say I've ever understood the need to crank that much power. Someone in my vape group does that, and for the life of me I don't get it. She claims it isn't vaping if she isn't punishing her juice with at least 25 - 30 watts; hell, around 13 -15 watts or so with almost any juice I routinely vape in a chobra is plenty (usually too much) by me. I think if I need more vapor than that I'd dump a bottle of nicquid in a pressure cooker, fire it up and stick a straw at the manual relief vent and have at it :lol:


I've been using coils in the 1 to 1.2-ohm range with my mechanical. I find the vape is just about the same as what I got with a Vamo around 13 W only with DC as opposed to PWM. The PWM has a tendency to overcome the very bad insulation we build on a mesh coil. I'm quite sure when I sit down and meter this properly that I'm not vaping at the 15 to 17W range that the simplified ideal circuit would suggest. Recently I saw Field Of Vapor, sho is a low ohm mechanical vaper say that since he's been using a DNA20 with his genesis set ups he's quite sure he was never near the wattage as advertised.

I know you also understand that the "other resistance" is a voltage divider, and as you lower the coil resistance the other resistors become much more significant to the power loss seen at the coil.

vaperswin wrote:I am one of them people and I vape a Genesis (when I am in the mood) no less than 20 watts. This is why I use a MNKE with a set up like that. That battery has much less drop off eliminating the word "KICK". Once it does drop off I know its time to put it on the charger. (about 3.6V). Its not a urban legend. Its a vape style. I have an issue with people telling me how to vape. I have been doing this for well over a year, and I know what I like. With that being said. I dont always like the same thing. Sometimes I vape a Mini, or a 650MAH ego with a CE4 or the like.

The fact is that if you like LOW OHMS, and lots of Wattage then everything plays a part. Is the wick, wicking well to deliver the juice? Is the wick hole big enough? The intake hole big enough? Is the wire thick enough? Do I have a hot spot? Is the battery safe at higher levels? Is the center post Brass? Is the center pin brass? Is the switch brass? This means nothing to a 1-4 ohm vaper. I get it. But the little things make a difference to a higher wattage vaper. Its just how it is. This is why its all the rave for some. So why even question it? Sure I could buy a mechanical and use a 1ohm coil+. But why not just use a mod with electronics then? Everything has its place and not everyone likes the same thing. This is why I sold my Provari's. We evolve or stay where we are. Its your personal choice.


I invite you to please read the blog post I linked. I think you've entirely missed the point of this thread.

Personally if I could get something that could be dropped into a tube like the kick and gave a constant Voltage output with a good enough amp limit, I think it might be a huge thing for RBA vapers.

vaperswin wrote:I guess the best way to describe it is to consider electrical wire. If you want to run 120V then you use one wire. For 240V, you use a much thicker wire. Sure the thicker wire will work with 120V but it cost more and its over kill. But the thinner wire wont work with 240V because it wont carry the current (You get V drop, or worse yet, a fire). Its basic when you think of it like that. The only people that question it are the ones that vape with lower current. I dont know how else to explain it. More power needs more conductivity. A way to deliver the power.


You've got that totally backwards. If you have a 1HP 120V motor and a 1HP 240V motor the current draw of the 120V motor is twice that of the 240V motor and the wire for the 120V motor would have to be rated for that higher current.
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