Well here it is, as promised, my method of rebuilding the coil heads for the Kanger T2 Clearomizer. Sorry it took so long to get together.
As with any rebuildable, you need to be careful. There is a chance of building a bad coil, something coming loose, or something getting shorted out someway or another. You should be using devices that are protected(short circuit protection on the device, protected batteries, or the 2 cent fuse/kick/something between the battery and your coil)
I am not responsible for any damages caused by following this guide. It is for reference and does not substitute for common sense. If you have any questions please ask, if it doesn’t feel safe it probably isn’t.
Tools and supplies needed:
Wicking matterial(in this instance its 3mm high temp silica)
resistance wire(32 gauge kanthal wire)
pg/pga mix (50/50 mixture of plain pg and pure grain alcohol, vodka will work too just needs to be plain)
small needle nose pliers
small wire snips
multimeter and leads
a couple of small screw drivers or a small flat head and a dental probe(the smaller the better tapering up is good too)
**if you are modifing the head for larger wicks(i think stock is 4 1mm wicks) you will need the following**
small jewelers file set
Not required but helpful
$15 at radio shack, but this is not used for this guide(i got this this morning after i had done the pictures for the guide)
These are the componets of the head, minus the old wicks and coil.
To get these apart you slide the silicon cover off the top, leaving the wick opening and the metal top plug. Pop the metal top plug out and set these two items to the side(far right side of the photo shows these)
Now just pull the wicks up till the coil comes loose, it will not take much to get the leads loose and it will all come out together. Toss the wick and old coil in the trash, and remember the good toots they gave.
Next take a small screwdriver and push the positive plug and the silicon insulator out of the bottom. They may come out together, I’ve not gotten em to but they might. Either way make sure you have both(far left side of the photo)
**Modifying for larger wicks**
For this guide I am using 3mm wicks, the coil housing doesn’t allow for that large of a wick sooo I performed a bit of surgery.
This is more based on personal touch than anything, but you want the wick to fit in the slot snuggly. Too loose and you get leaks and floods, too tight and you get dry hits and juice separation(dark juice remains when you get lower in the tank also shows up as flavor loss). Here is my before and after.
As you can see its not the prettiest thing in the world, but it gets the job done. You will need the small file set and emory cloth here. File out the slot till the wicking fits how you’d like, then wipe down with the emory cloth to get rid of burrs. A through washing is suggested, unless you like inhaling small metal shavings.
Making the coil:
Short wicks = about 30mm
Long wicks = about 60mm
I did long wicks for the guide and as a test, so far they wick wonderfully and require less of the tilt and swirl.
Cut your wicks to the length you want and the number you want(3mm I only use one).
Cut a piece of kanthal, long enough you can wrap it and leave an inch or so for each lead.(also make sure its long enough you can work with it) 🙂
Fold the tips of the wick together so that it forms a U in the middle that is about the width of the wick housing or larger. Stick the sewing needle through the wicks. You should end up with something like this when you are done.
This is where your coil will end up.
Now you take your kanthal in the hand that will be holding the needle/wick. Laying it across your thumb(leaving about 2 inches in the palm of your hand) and put the wick on top of it a little in from where the needle goes in. Apply pressure and hold 🙂
With your other hand, you will grab the remaining wire and wrap it tightly around the wick and needle. You want it tight as you can get it by hand(it loosens up after we remove the needle). Try and get the coils as close together as you can without having them touch.
More wraps = higher resistance
Less wraps = lower resistance
You will have to play around with it, there is a chart telling you how long of a piece of wire equals what resistance out there but it doesn’t really help with this.
my oh so pretty coil.
It’s not the best I’ve done…not the worst either.
anyway after you wrap it and its less than the width of the wick housing, you will want to trim the 2 leads of the coil. you want to leave one longer than the other, I’d suggest leaving one at around 2 inches and the other just over an inch(you will see why in a second)
At this point we want to feed the leads down the center of the wick housing…….
You maybe thinking “OMG is he nuts!!! How am I to get these 2 little wires I can barely see down that hole without them snagging!!!!?!?!?!1111”
Never fear! Spoon is here!
The leads should be 2 different lengths (if they aren’t then shame on you for not following directions!!). You should be able to thread them through one at a time fairly easy and end up with something like this.
Now pick a lead… that is your negative lead(the short lead in my case) and bend it out of the way.
Take the small silicon insulator and put it over the other lead(this is your positive lead, now pet it and give it a real name)
your condom, protecting you against unwanted shorts…..sometimes.
You can do this next part a couple of ways. You can either:
A) put the metal plug into the silicon now and slide em in together
B) slide the silicon in then put the metal plug in
Whichever way you choose the positive lead goes between the silicon and the metal plug and the negative lead should be outside of both of em(also helpful if the negative lead is on the opposite side of the housing from the positive lead).
If you can’t get method A to work try method B and vise versa. Use the small screwdriver and probe if you have one to feed the silicon down, the metal plug will help with this too if you are using method A.
method A in action!!
This is the end result. The leads are close together, but while inserting the plugs you prolly moved the coil up and out of the bottom the coil housing. To fix this put the housing on the table with the leads sticking up in the air, take your screwdriver and put it on the metal plug you just inserted and hold the housing there. Next using your needle nose pliers grab each lead in turn and pull the coil back down snug. You can easily reposition the leads further apart during this, just try and remember which one needs to move away and not get em twisted up.
Ok, so all of this so far has been pretty easy has it not? Well now its time to work, this next part is the hardest part.
It’s tricky, but you need to take your small screwdriver and kink the wire towards opposite pieces of metal. The positive lead needs to be kinked towards the metal plug, the negative lead towards the outside of the housing.
Now the hard part. Like you did earlier place the housing with the leads pointing up on the table and hold it in place with your small screwdriver. Grab one of the leads as close as you can to the housing and give it the old twist and twirl….it should snap at the kink point or at the point it comes out of the housing… if for whatever reason it snaps elsewhere you will have to use your small snips(micheals sells jewelry snips that fit nicely) and cut the leads so they do not make contact with each other or the other metal components (positive lead for example cannot touch the outer housing)
damn camera focus….
Now flip it over and take a look at your coil. It should be as centered as possible and not touching the sides of the housing or touching eachother. If you see a problem, using your probe or small screwdriver move the coils around, if its too tight to move then go ahead and remove the needle. Once its all situated it should look similar to this.
At this point I take the head and clean it with water and pat dry the wicks. Also get the pg/pga mixture and multimeter handy. After you have cleaned the head, attach it to the kanger tank. The wonderful thing here is the kanger has plenty of holes and grab spots that I was able to check the resistance with one hand and snap a pic with the other.
This is a fresh coil, never been burned, never has been powered.
Please note the resistance here. 2.3ohms, my multimeter allows me to zero out my leads so that is the actual resistance. Not too bad huh? close to what the stock one was.
Oh my hand position to check resistance one handed?
Positive lead in the center hole of the contact pin and the negative lead in the airhole in the base.
Now dry burn the head. When the coil starts to glow you want to watch and make sure they all glow, if parts are not glowing then that means they are making contact elsewhere and the power is bypassing that section(the resistance would have shown lower as well). While the coil is glowing you can adjust the coils with your screwdriver or probe, that should fix the problem, if not then you will need to start over.
If your wicks are too dry then drop a little pg/pga on them. This will also cool off your coil so it will take a sec to get the bright glow back. If you followed all of my instructions and kept a steady hand you should be good to go.
I would also check your resistance again. It always shifts on me at this point, somewhere between .1 and .3 ohm change.
only a .1 ohm increase.
So this is how I do kanger t2 coils. Hope that helps some of you. I know it saves me from ordering more, not that they are expensive or anything. I just enjoy doing stuff like this.
Hit me up if you have any questions.